Wicked’s Costume Designer on How to Tell Stories with Clothes | Paul Tazewell | TED

Overview

Paul Tazewell, an Oscar-winning costume designer, delves into the subconscious language of clothing and its power to shape perceptions of heroes and villains. Through his work on productions like Hamilton, West Side Story, and Wicked, he explores how costumes tell stories, challenge stereotypes, and redefine cultural narratives.

Notable Quotes

- Costume is a subconscious language. I'm using your power of perception to lead you through the story. - Paul Tazewell, on the emotional and narrative impact of clothing.

- Wickedness can be designed. And if it can be designed, then maybe together, it can be redesigned. - Paul Tazewell, reflecting on the transformative power of storytelling through costumes.

- The tragedy of 'West Side Story' isn't that these two sides were so different. The real antagonist was the city itself. - Paul Tazewell, on dismantling stereotypes through design.

🎭 The Role of Costumes in Storytelling

- Costumes are more than decoration; they are tools for shaping perception and telling silent stories.

- Paul Tazewell emphasizes how clothing can evoke curiosity or suspicion before a character speaks.

- Through elements like silhouette, color, and texture, costumes reflect emotional arcs, growth, and conflict.

- Clothing carries memory and cultural fingerprints, embodying aspirations and biases.

🎩 Reimagining History in Hamilton

- Lin-Manuel Miranda challenged Tazewell to present the Founding Fathers through a modern lens, blending 18th-century silhouettes with contemporary voices.

- Neutral tones allowed performers' skin and voices to take center stage, contrasting with King George III's elaborate regalia symbolizing the Old World.

- Visual contrasts, like Jefferson's flamboyant purple inspired by pop icons, highlighted the charisma and complexity of history.

- Hamilton's vibrant green suits versus Burr's muted palette set up a visual duel, culminating in their shared black capes symbolizing historical balance.

🌆 Cultural Complexity in West Side Story

- Tazewell rejected stereotypes, giving dignity and authenticity to both Jets and Sharks.

- Jets' costumes reflected blue-collar toughness, while Sharks' vibrant textiles embodied aspiration and cultural pride.

- The iconic dance scene blended warm and cool tones, symbolizing cultural mixing despite conflict.

- Costumes underscored the systemic displacement tearing neighborhoods apart, revealing the true antagonist of the story.

🧙‍♀️ Challenging Perceptions in Wicked

- Tazewell reexamined the dichotomy of good versus wicked through Elphaba and Glinda's costumes.

- Elphaba's green skin and black attire were reframed to highlight her intelligence and compassion, while Glinda's glittering pink revealed her flaws.

- The designs posed questions about societal judgments, belonging, and marginalization.

- Tazewell drew from his own experiences as a Black gay man to empathize with misunderstood characters.

🧵 The Power of Design to Shape Identity

- Clothing, furniture, and art are all costumes that shape identity and culture.

- Design is never neutral; it carries biases and aspirations, influencing how we perceive others.

- Tazewell invites audiences to rethink perceptions, emphasizing that wickedness is a matter of perspective—and can be redesigned.